Sussex has been my primary focus this year, with countless visits to charming rural establishments, acclaimed dining venues, wineries and various other attractions. However, I felt the time had come for something more spectacular, writes Nick Mosley.
My enthusiasm was particularly piqued when I learned that Goodwood House had resumed operations following its seasonal closure. I reached out to my most refined companion – Jan, who manages Brighton’s Toy and Museum – and together we boarded a train to Chichester beneath brilliant sunshine for our inaugural 2026 season excursion and cream tea experience.
Goodwood lies just a brief car journey from Chichester Station, and before long we found ourselves approaching the impressive Palladian exterior along a gravel pathway. I must admit I was somewhat taken aback – given that the family maintains private accommodation within the property – to be received at the main entrance by two impeccably courteous gentlemen. The atmosphere strongly evoked scenes from a certain period drama, so I was grateful I had styled my hair appropriately and selected my finest casual footwear.
The narrative of Goodwood, its aristocratic residents, distinguished visitors and domestic personnel could fill volumes; indeed such publications do exist and offer considerably more depth than this column permits, though a condensed overview provides useful background.
The property serves as the ancestral residence of the Duke and Duchess of Richmond and Gordon. Building commenced in 1617, though various expansions have occurred throughout subsequent centuries. Most internal spaces reflect Regency aesthetics, and the extensive art collection comprising over three hundred works represents a compelling journey through British and European creative traditions, featuring masters such as Canaletto, Van Dyck, Stubbs and Reynolds. Additionally, notable tapestry collections, ceramic exhibitions and sophisticated furnishings – many originating from the reigns of France’s Louis XV and XVI before their literal removal – grace the interior.
Spanning eleven thousand acres of agricultural and rural terrain, the estate is renowned for housing Goodwood racecourse – among the most scenically positioned equestrian venues in Britain – together with the automotive circuit established by the automobile-enthusiast ninth Duke, which remains active throughout the year hosting the distinguished Goodwood Revival and Festival of Speed events.
Both Jan and I thoroughly enjoyed the property exploration – our accompanying expert provided captivating insights and possessed intimate knowledge of every corner – though by three in the afternoon we were prepared for refreshment and our anticipated afternoon tea. We were escorted into the magnificent ballroom; unquestionably the most impressive dining space I have occupied since Jan and I previously helped organise a Regency-inspired charitable dinner at Brighton’s Royal Pavilion several years prior.
Goodwood’s afternoon tea selection deserves commendation. Jan selected the plant-based alternative whilst I opted for the wheat-free variety. Beginning from the foundation, my selection comprised delicate sandwiches – featuring smoked salmon with egg and cress, alongside roasted beef and cheese sourced from the estate’s own organic and traditional farming operations. The contents were flavourful, though as someone who typically avoids gluten-free bread at home, I consumed the savoury elements whilst discarding the carbohydrates.
The middle section presented four distinct pastries: carrot cake, coconut macaron, peach cheesecake and white chocolate lemon mousse. I found the initial two particularly enjoyable but considered the latter pair excessively saccharine for my preferences – though individual tastes naturally differ, and I certainly applaud the imagination and skill demonstrated.
The absolute highlight proved to be the scones, and – frankly – scone preparation serves as a true test of any afternoon tea establishment. Jan received traditional varieties, served warm and generously filled with dried fruit, which she applied clotted cream and strawberry preserve to enthusiastically. My gluten-free versions were exceptional – possessing structure whilst remaining airy, completely free from the dense, sticky texture that those with wheat sensitivities typically dread. Absolutely top marks!
The beverage selection disappointed me somewhat. Personally, I favour a delicate, reviving Darjeeling alongside my afternoon refreshments, yet I was limited to Earl Grey and citrus; entirely adequate, so this represents merely a trivial grievance on my part.
What genuinely astounded me was the pricing structure for the Goodwood afternoon tea and property exploration, given that our extended and captivating visit also included viewing contemporary sculptural works positioned throughout the estate grounds. The independent property tour – approximately ninety minutes in duration – costs fifteen pounds, or paired with ballroom afternoon tea simply thirty-seven pounds fifty per guest. The house Champagne – Veuve Clicquot – requires an additional eighteen pounds per glass, though Goodwood’s own gin or ale is available for roughly six to seven pounds. Tours operate on Sundays and Mondays through October, with additional availability during August.
Having sampled numerous afternoon teas across Sussex over the years – including those at several prestigious hotels – I remain puzzled as to how they generate any profit from this offering, yet I certainly raise no objections and neither should you. The experience represents remarkable worth and a genuinely unforgettable excursion that I can endorse without reservation.
Goodwood House, Kennel Hill, Chichester, West Sussex PO18 0PX
01243 755 000 • www.goodwood.com