The Establishment stands out among Brighton’s more energetic nightspots, and the introduction of fresh culinary options and drink selections is expected to draw additional crowds.
Situated in the heart of the historic quarter, this venue has been operating for 14 years and has built a well-earned reputation for being more animated than several newer establishments that have opened nearby.
A recent press visit took place on a bright weekday afternoon.
During this time, numerous patrons were enjoying daytime snacks and beverages, while a group marked a birthday occasion with an impressive round of Tuaca and Tequila Rose shots.
A notice indicated that smoke effects and intermittent flashing lights would be operating on weekend evenings, hinting at further entertainment to come.
These features had not yet been activated during the visit, so instead the party settled into a pleasant window table accompanied by classic jazz recordings featuring Frank Sinatra, Rosemary Clooney and Evelyn Knight.
The venue on Meeting House Lane has long ranked among the city’s leading cocktail destinations. It combines traditional favourites with innovative house creations that were photograph-worthy long before social media documenting of drinks became commonplace.
Seasonal newcomers include Beside the Seaside, a reimagined version of an existing popular concoction, combining rum cream and Limoncello in an ice cream cone-shaped vessel and topped with a caramelised meringue creating a Baked Alaska-style presentation.
The Final Prescription from the Medicine Cabinet selection sounds more intimidating but arrives in a laboratory-style glass. Despite the bold combination of Diplomatico Reserva rum and Jägermeister Orange, the addition of sharp sour apple and light coconut foam creates balance.
The Monkey See, Monkey Booze arrived in a terracotta cup. This sweeter, tropical option featuring banana and butterscotch was topped with prosecco and went down well with those present.
The food selection offers both light bites and more substantial plates. Diners were advised to attend with hearty appetites, and an impressive cheese and charcuterie spread arrived promptly.
The board featured house-made pickles, crispy flatbreads, an assortment of cheeses and excellently cured meats sliced to order. The generous selection of Italian-style cured meats brought to mind the preferences of fictional television mob boss Tony Soprano and his affinity for gabagool. He would certainly have appreciated this substantial sharing platter.
The Italian focus aligns with the kitchen’s new offerings under head chef Loris Bevilacqua, who hails from Venice.
Arancini balls containing spicy nduja sausage and a herb and ricotta-stuffed aubergine were two moreish Mediterranean selections. These were followed by a Roman-style flatbread called Pinsa Romana. Hand-formed into an oval rather than circular shape on a flatbread base, the porcini mushrooms came in a secret creamy sauce and paired nicely with the nutty Scamorza cheese.
Chef Loris also presents an impressive pasta option with Pasta Calamarata All’Amatriciana. This straightforward but flavourful dish features strips of cured pork cheek providing substantial taste, balanced with tangy tomato sauce, crispy onions and generous pecorino.
A selection of grilled items is also available, two of which arrived presented on small Japanese-style barbecue plates. The chargrilled prawns were substantial and stayed moist thanks to ample lemon, while the nasu dengaku, aubergine with sweet miso glaze, was less visually striking but delivered an excellent umami punch.
The meal concluded with a strawberry and cream pannacotta and a pair of summer negronis featuring strawberry-infused Campari and vanilla-flavoured Licor 43 substituted for Vermouth, an interesting variation on the classic bitter cocktail.
The signature smoking tiramisu would need to wait for another occasion, as would numerous other cocktails that caught the eye.
Upon departure, a jazz trio was preparing for the evening entertainment while the birthday party showed no signs of slowing down. A reliable local favourite indeed.