The Crazy Goose is located on Boyce’s Street in Brighton and opened at the beginning of the year as a British pub.
The venture is operated by the Brighton-based Black Rock Restaurant Group, whose other restaurant concepts include The Salt Room, Burnt Orange, Tutto and The Coal Shed.
Although marketed as a pub, the venue presented the atmosphere of a European bistro rather than the appearance and character associated with a traditional British pub, including more formal gastropubs.
Its food and drink drew inspiration from familiar English pub dishes, but the culinary treatment was more refined than that of many pubs and came at a higher price than customers might normally expect.
The launch menu was praised for its quality, while the venue’s martini was also singled out for particular praise.
Lemon sole meunière was described as the best dish the reviewer had eaten in Brighton and was considered generous for its price.
Daily pies proved popular, and the roasted scallops with pancetta and chorizo were ranked as the most memorable dish the reviewer had encountered during the year.
By early last month, the pub theme had been quietly replaced, with the kitchen shifting towards the small-plate format favoured by Black Rock.
The change brought some concern because small plates allow diners to sample several dishes but can cost more than a two-course restaurant meal.
A later lunch service included a 175ml glass of house wine, priced at £7.50, and a dry gin martini.
The menu covered bites, small plates, skewers and a range of sides.
Dishes started at £3.50 for a large bowl of seasonal house pickles, which were described as tasty, tangy and crunchy, while some small plates cost up to £14.
Both diners selected three dishes.
One diner chose flatbread sizzled with sesame brown butter and chickpea hummus with miso onions and coconut yoghurt.
The reviewer could not try either dish because of an aversion to gluten and soya, although both were said to have a appealing aroma and were eaten enthusiastically.
The sticky lamb ribs were seasoned with Levantine spices and accompanied by a fermented apricot sauce that combined tart and sweet flavours.
At £12, however, the serving of two ribs was considered limited, and one piece contained a particularly thin strip of meat.
The other diner received a larger portion.
Halloumi with honey was another highlight.
The cheese was praised for being correctly balanced between salty and squeaky textures, while the addition of curry leaves gave the dish an unexpected dimension.
A moist chicken thigh skewer served with green chilli, lime and coriander sauce was also considered well cooked and reflective of creative work in the kitchen.
Dessert at lunchtime consisted of a single option: the soft-serve ice cream of the day.
Despite its retro presentation, the dessert was highly rated and included pistachio, Turkish delight and rose petals.
A press release received after the review visit indicated that the menu had since changed again, with the focus now on rotisserie chicken.
The dishes sampled during the reported lunch may therefore no longer be available.
Neighbouring Black Rock restaurant Burnt Orange was described as consistently busy, with diners crowded together and a queue extending outside.
The Crazy Goose was considered the preferable option for comparable cooking and a similar selection of food, without the same demand for space.
The venue has yet to establish a clear identity, but its food and service were described as thoroughly enjoyable.
It was regarded as one of the stronger restaurants in Brighton and as a business that was steadily establishing its position.
The Crazy Goose is at 8 Boyce’s Street, Brighton, BN1 1AN, and can be contacted on 01273 929 079.